The Step-By-Step Guide To Changing Your Car’s Spark Plugs

If you crank your engine and experience a hard start, there’s a good chance the problem involves your spark plugs. They are responsible for igniting the air-fuel mixture within your engine‘s cylinders. Unfortunately, they become fouled over time. Constant exposure to the combustion process results in a buildup of deposits on the plugs that eventually prevents them from delivering a sufficient spark. They need to be changed in order to maintain the efficient operation of your engine. Otherwise, you’ll experience misfires, difficulty accelerating, a rough idle, and poor gas mileage.

Fortunately, changing your spark plugs is easy. If you have the right tools, you should be able to change a set of four plugs in less than an hour. With a little experience, you may be able to do so in half the time. This article will provide step-by-step details to walk you through the process.

Step 1: Gather The Tools For The Job

Before you get started, make sure you have everything you need within reach. Besides the replacement spark plugs, you’ll need a ratchet wrench, plug socket, and socket extensions. You should also have lubrication to grease the plugs’ threads as well as a gapping tool (though the gapping tool is optional). Lastly, it’s a good idea to use protective goggles since debris can become airborne and pose a danger to your eyes.

Step 2: Locate The Plugs And Remove The Wires

Lift the hood of your vehicle and find the thick hoses sprawled across the top of your engine. At the end of each hose, you’ll find a spark plug. In a typical 4-cylinder engine, the plugs are located along the top of the assembly and positioned in a straight line. They’re very easy to access. On a typical 8-cylinder configuration, the plugs are positioned on the sides of the engine. They are more difficult to reach, but still doable.

Because the cylinders follow a specific firing order, remove the plug wires one at a time. If you remove all of the wires at once, you’ll risk reinserting them incorrectly. Grab each wire at the base and pull upward.

Step 3: Take Out The Old Plugs

After you have removed the first plug wire, grab your ratchet wrench. Attach the socket extension and plug socket onto it and fit the socket over the spark plug. It should form a snug fit. Turn the ratchet to unscrew the plug from its slot.

Step 4: Install The Replacement Plugs

When installing the replacement spark plug, be careful. Avoid pushing or forcing the plug into the slot since doing so can damage the threads and the new plug. Simply position it in the slot and screw it in by hand. If you feel resistance, unscrew the plug to reposition it, and then start over. Once the replacement spark plug has been screwed in as far as it will go by hand, use the ratchet wrench to finish the job. The plug should fit firmly in place.

Next, attach the plug wire to the replacement spark plug and double-check the connection before moving on to the next plug.

Step 5: Crank The Engine To Test The Installation

If you have completed the steps as described for each plug, you should be able to start your car with no problem. Turn the key and test your installation. If your engine idles roughly or misfires immediately upon starting your car, that’s a sign you have installed the plug wires out of firing order. You’ll need to confirm the order (you can find the information online), review your installation, and make any necessary changes.

Plan to replace your spark plugs every 40,000 to 50,000 miles. Even if you suspect they’re in good condition, it’s better to replace them than wait for them to become fouled and ineffective. They’re inexpensive, which makes a set of replacements a wise investment.

American Cars

Subscribe to the American Cars feed.

How Your Car’s Air Conditioner Works

Once an expensive luxury for the well-heeled, air conditioning is now a commonplace comfort in nearly all types of vehicles. A car’s A/C unit cools and dehumidifies air which enters the cabin. The first systems were relatively simple and easy to repair, but the introduction of computerized temperature control and other assembly modifications has changed that. Today’s do-it-yourself auto enthusiasts are rarely able to repair the units.

Below, we’ll take a brief tour through your vehicle’s A/C unit. We’ll explore the components that work together as well as the refrigerant which cools the air. The information I’ll provide is merely a glimpse. While you won’t be able to repair your vehicle’s A/C, you will at least be informed when you visit your mechanic.

How The A/C’s Components Work Together

The heart of your car’s A/C system is the compressor, a belt-driven pump that compresses and moves the refrigerant. A refrigerant is a chemical compound that is used to transfer heat, during which it undergoes a phase change from gas to liquid and vice versa.

Along with the compressor, the condenser is necessary for heat dissipation. As the refrigerant leaves the compressor, the heat absorbed from the cabin causes it to expand into a gas. Traveling along the condenser coils, the fluid proceeds to change back into a liquid. Because a condenser requires maximum air flow to enable heat dissipation, the part is often mounted in front of the radiator (though its position can vary). In addition to the mounting point, some vehicles have incorporated a cooling fan as well.

The evaporator also plays an important role in your vehicle’s air conditioner. This device removes heat from the inside of your car and provides a small degree of dehumidification. The evaporator assembly has an array of aluminum fins that allow water contained within the air to condense. When the water condenses, pollen, dust, and other particulates are trapped by the droplets which are then drained off and released under the car.

Refrigerant Maintenance

When the first air conditioning units were introduced, the refrigerant R-12 was used. Otherwise known as Freon, this odorless, colorless chlorofluorocarbon was discovered to damage the ozone layer. Since the 1990s, most Freon applications have been phased out due to government regulation.

In the event of an air conditioner malfunction on an older car, the fluid may have to be replaced with an environmentally-friendly alternative. Currently, this means retrofitting the old system for R-134a, a refrigerant that won’t harm the ozone layer. However, this new fluid will have a higher operating pressure and will therefore require new, stronger parts. In some cases, parts may not necessarily have to be replaced depending on the fluid change.

If you notice that your car’s A/C system isn’t cooling the cabin as quickly or effectively as it used to, ask your mechanic to run a test. It’s likely that the refrigerant needs to be replenished. That said, if your A/C is failing, plan to spend at least $200.

American Cars

Subscribe to the American Cars feed.

Things That Can Go Wrong With Your Vehicle’s Clutch

It may surprise you to know that your car has at least one clutch, even if your transmission is an automatic. In fact, your vehicle might have several of them. A clutch is a relatively simple component that connects two rotating shafts and allows them to spin at the same rate. It can also disconnect the two shafts, allowing them to spin at different rates.

For example, consider the tires on your car. They’re connected to the engine and rely upon it for propulsion. The engine is constantly spinning, even if you’re sitting at a red traffic light. Because your tires are not spinning constantly, a clutch is needed to reconnect the tires and engine when the traffic light turns green.

Unfortunately, clutches are like all auto parts: they can fail from normal wear and tear. Below, I’ll describe a few problems that you might eventually experience with your car’s clutch.

The Slip

When your vehicle’s clutch is engaged, it is supposed to slip in order to prevent jerking. This is the case whether you’re starting from a dead stop or changing gears. Normally, when you remove your foot from the clutch pedal, the component should establish a smooth connection between the engine and the transmission. If you notice excess slippage, there’s a problem. A little leads to a lot because the heat generated from the friction makes it even more difficult for the clutch to grip its position. So, it slips even more.

The Jerk

Technically, this problem is called “chatter.” It’s characterized by a lurching or jerking motion when you engage the clutch. The most common cause is oil on the linings. However, there are several factors that can contribute, including a warped flywheel, misaligned chassis, and even a damaged CV joint.

Grinding Or Growling

When the bearings are severely worn, vibrations inside the clutch actuator can produce squealing, grinding, or growling noises. Like chatter, a lot of factors might be involved. For example, the bearing retainer might be damaged, the release bearing may have failed, or the disc may have been installed poorly. Different causes lead to different noises. A squeal may be caused by a malfunctioning pilot bearing while a growl can be caused by a transmission bearing.

The Stubborn Link

If you press down on the clutch pedal, but the clutch refuses to disconnect, you’ll be unable to shift into gear. You’ll probably hear a loud grinding noise and your engine might stall. This can happen if the release cable breaks, if the hydraulic line has air in it, or the clutch disc has become warped or bent. It can also be caused by a leaking master clutch cylinder.

If your car’s clutch fails, you should have a mechanic replace it as opposed to doing the work yourself; the job is usually labor-intensive. Make sure the replacement that he installs meets OEM specs. Your clutch is one of those systems with which you do not want to take chances.

American Cars

Subscribe to the American Cars feed.

Newer Posts »